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From Egg To Chick:

Constructing The Incubator


An incubator for a science project need not be as elaborately constructed as a commercial incubator. Plans for two still-air incubators are given in this circular. One can be made from cardboard boxes and glass and the other from plywood (or similar material) and glass.

Don't expect 100 percent success in hatching eggs in these or any other incubators. Commercial hatcheries with all their highly automatic and specialized equipment do not average much more than an 80 percent hatch of all the eggs they incubate. You probably should not count on hatching more than 50 percent, and you may not even succeed in hatching 50 percent.

A CARDBOARD BOX INCUBATOR 1

The following supplies are needed to construct an inexpensive cardboard box incubator which will hold three dozen or more eggs:

  • Two cardboard boxes, one 16" (40.6 cm) wide x 20" (50.8 cm) long x 12-1/2" (31.8 cm) high, the other 14" (35.6 cm) wide x 18" (45.7 cm) long x 13" (33.0 cm) (or more) high

  • Single-strength pane of glass 16" (40.6 cm) x 20" (50.8 cm)

  • 1/4" (0.6 cm) mesh welded hardware cloth 18" (45.7 cm) x 22" (55.9 cm)

  • Commercial heating unit or porcelain socket and light bulb

  • Cake tin (water pan) 1-1/2" (3.8 cm) deep x approximately 9" (22.8 cm) x 14" (35.6 cm)

  • Glue

  • Masking or scotch tape

  • Newspapers

  • Two brooding or incubator thermometers

Figure 1
Top view of a cardboard box incubator. The drawings on this and the following page will show you how to construct the box. (Courtesy of E. A. Schano, Cornell University.) (Fig. 1)

The incubator is made in the following manner:

  1. Place the smaller box inside the larger one. The inner box should be higher than the outer box and approximately 2 inches (5 cm) smaller in both length and width.

  2. Mark a line on the inside box approximately 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) below the level of the outside box. Use a yardstick to make a straight line on the inner box after it is removed from the outer box.

  3. Cutting the Cardboard Box
  4. Cut off the top of the inside box along the line made in step number 2.

  5. Use cut-away pieces of the inside box to line the bottoms of both the inner and outer boxes where the flaps do not meet. If there are no cut-away pieces, use pieces from a third box.

  6. Put glue on the bottom of the inner box arid then center the inner box in the outer one. There should be a 1-inch (2.5 cm) space between the sides of the boxes. Secure the inner box until the glue dries.

  7. Drawing in the Box
  8. Mark a line on the flaps of the outside box where they come in contact with the inner edge of the inside box.

  9. Cutting the FlapsCut off the flaps of the outside box along the lines drawn in step number 6. Cut the corner pieces on a diagonal so that they will make a neat, flat corner.

  10. Stuff strips of newspaper lightly into the space between the boxes. Do not bulge the sides of the incubator. Wood shavings, excelsior, or styrofoam can be used in place of the newspaper strips.

  11. Using the Tin Snips Use tin snips to cut a 2-inch (5 cm) square from each corner of the 1/4 inch (.6 cm) mesh hardware cloth, then bend the projecting pieces of the screen down so that they form legs to support the screen.

  12. Place the cake tin, which will cover about onehalf of the surface area of the inside box, under the hardware cloth screen.

  13. Install the commercial heating element as directed in the instructions sent with the unit. If you use an electric light for heat, mount the porcelain socket on a board 6 inches (15 cm) square, then place the mounting board on the screen. Next, place a tube of cardboard around the light. Position the tube so that it surrounds the light and stands like a chimney, but to reduce the fire hazard do not let it come in contact with either the light bulb or the covering glass. An oatmeal box makes a good tube.

  14. Taping the Inside
  15. Tape the flaps of the outer box to the sides of the inner box. This seals the area in which the insulating material was placed.

A PLYWOOD INCUBATOR 2

The following materials are needed:

  • Plywood

  • Glass

  • Cake tin

  • 1/4" (.6 cm) mesh welded hardware cloth

  • Heating unit: either a commercial unit or porcelain socket and light bulb

  • Masking tape

Figure 2
End view of a plywood incubator. Note the tin vent covers for control of humidity and temperature. Glass viewing top is sealed at the sides with masking tape. (Courtesy of John Bezpa, Rutgers University.) (Fig. 2)

Figure 3
Side view of the plywood box incubator shown in Fig. 2 (Courtesy of John Bezpa, Rutgers University.) (Fig. 3)

You may construct the incubator according to the size desired. It can be a small one for only a few eggs, or it can be a somewhat larger one which will hold several dozen eggs. The larger the incubator, the more difficult it will be to maintain a uniform temperature in it. In fact, you may find it important in the larger incubator to put in a small fan (3- or 4-inch (7- or 10- cm) blade or smaller) with a low revolving rate. For details concerning the construction of a small incubator for about 24 eggs, see Figs. 2 and 3.

OTHER SOURCES OF INCUBATORS

Some of the companies which manufacture small incubators and incubator parts are:


Brower Mfg. Co., Quincy, Illinois.
(Incubators, incubator thermometers, and circuit breakers.)

Fleet Mfg. Co., P.O. Box 649, Glendale, California.
(Small incubators.)

Lyon Rural Electric Co., P.O. Box 30, 2075 Moore Street, San Diego, California 92112.
(Incubators, incubator thermometers, thermostats, and midget incubator kits.)

Montgomery Ward & Co., Chicago, Illinois 60607.
(Farm catalog: Small incubators, incubator thermometers, and thermostats.)

National Agricultural Supply Co., Ft. Atkinson, Wisconsin.
(Small incubators.)

Sears Roebuck & Co., Chicago, Illinois 60607.
(Suburban-Farm Supplies and Fencing Catalog: Small incubators, thermometers, and thermostats.)




1 Courtesy of E. A. Schano, Cornell University.

2 Courtesy of John Bezpa, Rutgers University.



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